Anti-ageing skincare at 30+: retinol, peptides and antioxidants

After 30 the skin loses 1% of its collagen every year. Which active ingredients are scientifically proven and in what order to apply them — a dermatologist's guidance.

From the age of 30 the skin loses 1% of its collagen a year. At 40 that figure rises to 2%. The right skincare not only slows this process but can also repair existing damage — though only with scientifically proven ingredients.

Retinol: the gold standard in anti-ageing

How does it work? - Speeds up cell turnover (from 28 days to 14) - Stimulates collagen production - Reduces pigmentation spots - Tightens open pores

Strength: - 0.025% (for beginners) → 0.05% (after 3 months) → 0.1% (for the experienced) - Stronger: tretinoin (on prescription) — 0.025-0.1%

How to apply:** 1. In the evening (it degrades under UV during the day) 2. On a completely dry face (it stings on damp skin) 3. A pea-sized amount 4. Carefully around the eyes and lips 5. The first 6 weeks: one night at a time → gradually every night 6. The next day **SPF 50+ is essential

A misconception: "Retinol thins your skin" — NO, retinol thickens it (the epidermal layer). Peeling occurs only in the first 4-6 weeks.

Peptides: collagen signals

How do they work? Peptides send the cell a signal to "produce collagen". Different peptides stimulate different functions:

• **Matrixyl 3000** — collagen synthesis (a 50% increase in 8 weeks)
• **Argireline** — "topical Botox" (reduces expression lines)
• **Copper peptides** — wound healing, wrinkles

Who are they for? - Ages 30-40 (preventive) - Skin that does not tolerate retinol (sensitive) - In combination with retinol (they reinforce it)

Vitamin C: antioxidant and radiance

How does it work? - Protects against UV damage (strengthens SPF) - Lightens pigmentation spots - Supports collagen synthesis - Neutralises free radicals

Forms: - L-Ascorbic Acid (pure, 10-20%) — the strongest, but it oxidises - Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate — stable, gentler - Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) — oil-soluble, penetrates deeply

Application: - In the morning after cleansing - Before hyaluronic acid - Before SPF

Niacinamide: the multi-purpose wonder

Benefits: - Reduces pore size - Controls oily skin - Lightens pigmentation - Strengthens the skin barrier

Concentration: 5-10% (above 10% it sometimes stings)

Suitable for everyone — it can be combined with retinol, vitamin C and peptides.

SPF: the most important anti-ageing step

The reality: All anti-ageing serums are money thrown away without SPF.

UV damage accounts for 80% of ageing (genetics for 20%).

The right SPF: - SPF 50+ (though the difference above 50 is slight) - PA++++ (UVA protection) - Reapplied every 2 hours (in summer) - Mineral (zinc oxide) for sensitive skin - Chemical (avobenzone and octinoxate) for everyday use

A typical 30+ routine

Morning 1. A gentle cleanser 2. Vitamin C serum (15%) 3. Hyaluronic acid 4. Niacinamide (10%) 5. Moisturiser 6. **SPF 50+**

Evening 1. Double cleanse (oil and water) 2. Toner (gentle) 3. **Active** (rotating): - 1 night: retinol (0.05%) - 1 night: peptide serum - 1 night: AHA (lactic or glycolic) - 1 night: moisturiser only (skin barrier) 4. Eye cream (peptide-based) 5. A rich moisturiser (ceramide-based)

Clinical support

Skincare on its own has its limits. Between the ages of 30-40, combining it with professional procedures gives a good result:

• HydraFacial (1 a month)
• Microneedling (1 every 3 months)
• Micro-peel (1 every 6 months)
• Botox (1 every 4 months)
• Filler (1 every 12 months)